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EXPERIENCE H-D
THE LONG WAY NORTH
 
One man, one Pan America™, one long adventure ride to the northernmost point in Europe. Erwan Moreau recalls his epic journey….
“One day it will be my turn and I will do it!”


This year I was finally able to fulfil my long-awaited dream – to ride to the furthest point north in Europe, Nordkapp in Norway, from my home in Badalona, near Barcelona in Spain. Ironically, the restrictions and limitations brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic were a key factor in allowing me to find my freedom and pursue my ambition.

I’d been thinking about taking such a trip for many years, and each time it was sparked again by reading touring stories in The Enthusiast®, watching programmes like the ‘Long Way’ series or checking out vlogs from motorcycle travellers. Every time I saw or read such stories, I told myself: “This is what I need in my life! One day it will be my turn and I will do it!” 

In September of 2020, with mobility in southern Europe still severely affected by the ongoing situation, I decided it was time to stop dreaming and start acting by creating my ideal riding route to reach Nordkapp – the northernmost point in Europe reachable by motorcycle or car. That goal was also the start of discovering the wonders of not just Norway but also all the other roads I wanted to ride along the way. Little by little my European map was filled with pins showing places I wanted to see, and after linking them all up my perfect ‘Road to Nordkapp’ was created. 





Summer 2021 arrived, and the restricted mobility was still affecting my business. I run an international modelling agency, so the restrictions meant that work, was unfortunately slow. A decision needed to be made. In my mind there was no question: since work was not currently going so well, then it was the perfect time to realise my dream ride. So instead of worrying about my business, I had a talk with my beloved wife about the trip. It was a hard conversation – because the trip would take more time than she had available for holiday leave, she agreed to let me travel alone. 

My long-awaited moment was finally here! Then, like all the best-laid plans, something happened to throw me off course. The original plan was to ride my beloved 2016 Street Glide® Special, but something unexpected happened in February 2021 - the reveal of the brand-new Pan America™. To be honest I didn’t even know Harley-Davidson was developing a big adventure bike model, so I was amazed to see the launch event promoted in their social media. I was hooked right away…in fact, I fell in love! Two days later I was at my local dealership in Barcelona, putting down my order for a Pan America Special without even waiting for the demo bike to arrive so I could try it. It was clear in my mind that the bike was going to absolutely rock! 

So, after being one of the very first clients in Europe to receive their Harley-Davidson Pan America, by the middle of June I had completed my first 1,600km and the bike had received its first service. After spending a couple of weeks on holiday with my wife, I was ready to start my much-anticipated ride to Nordkapp! The 3rd of August 2021 was decided upon as my departure day. It was an emotional moment because, as well as fulfilling my dream, I hoped that this trip would help to cure me of the feelings of anxiety and stress that I had been experiencing for the previous year, like so many others. 





The thought of leaving everyone behind for over twenty days was difficult, to say the least. I started having doubts about travelling alone for so many days, so far away from home. Should I leave after all, or should I stay? I knew deep in my soul that if I stayed, I would never forgive myself for losing the opportunity to make this once-in-a-lifetime journey. So, after almost a full day of delay, at 7.30pm I jumped on my Pan America - and began to live the best moments of my life. 

By the time I returned, 24 days and nearly 12.000km later, I’d crossed France, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Norway. I’d ridden through fog, wind, rain, thunderstorms and sun. I’d felt cold, heat, fear, hunger and fatigue, but I’d also cried tears of joy. I’d felt so many emotions and feelings - but to feel is to be alive! 

Many memories from that trip will stay with me forever. How could I forget riding the famous B500 that crosses the Black Forest in the south of Germany? I was expecting a tiny slow road and was astonished to find instead that it was a fast road ideal for sport riding, so the ‘Sport’ mode was duly activated. The boost of the engine was instantaneous and the sensations of leaning from left to right following the road were so sublime. I enjoyed each and every metre of the ride. Up to that point I’d had to ride mainly through rain, so I can tell you that each ray of sun on that beautiful road was pure happiness!

Finally, the 11th of August arrived, along with my journey’s destination - Nordkapp was near! The moment will be marked forever in my memory. It had reached 1.30 in the morning, after what seemed like an eternity of slow travel because of the fog - I couldn’t see more than three metres in front of me. Suddenly, there it was: the famous sign on my right and, a bit further on, the globe monument on the cliff edge. The feeling of finally being there was so intense. I cried tears of happiness, and my shouts of joy from inside my helmet were dimmed only by the thickness of the fog! I stayed there for a while, in complete silence, and it was surreal to see other riders arriving at this pilgrimage location so late at night, like ghosts from the mist. I wasn’t the only crazy one! 

I stayed a couple of nights on the island of Magerøya, where Nordkapp is located, where I enjoyed meeting the local people and all the other riders coming from every corner of Europe. Then my return journey began along the beautiful Norwegian coastline. 





What were the highlights of the trip? Apart from the majesty of Nordkapp itself, and that magnificent Black Forest road, I would choose the island of Senja, located far above the Arctic Circle. It’s one of the best places I’ve ever ridden. Imagine yourself riding the peaks of the Alps, but instead of having lakes at your side, you have the sea. Crossing the different fjords located in the south-west of Norway, with their sea valleys and mountain passes, was heart-stopping - especially the legendary, awe-inspiring (and frankly, frightening) Trollstigen, Norway’s most famous mountain pass. The Lofoten Islands were breath-taking too, with white sandy beaches backed by majestic cliffs. And what can I say about the Atlantic Road - those 10 kilometres right along the edge of the Atlantic Ocean were a key moment of joy on my trip. 

As for the new Pan America? It’s a beast! I’m so happy with it – it performed so well and took everything in its stride. I would say that the best feature of the bike is either its powerful engine, or the amazing suspension with its different riding modes. And the seat is so comfortable! I kind of miss the old exhaust sounds from my previous Iron 883™ and Street Glide Special – but the Pan America is, after all, a very different kind of bike. 

What a journey…and what better feeling could there be than doing it on a Harley®? This trip has changed my life. In many ways I do not want to return to the office and normal life, but instead to spend the rest of my days riding my Harley-Davidson® and sharing my travel experiences with the world. Is that an impossible dream…? 





Fancy trying Erwan's route out for yourself? Check it out on the Ride Planner here




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